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The outfits were all variations on the archetypal Thom Browne ensemble: a “shrunken” gray suit with jacket sleeves that end above the wrists, lapels as thin and sharp as paring knives, and pant legs that are cut some three inches above the ankle, revealing what Browne likes to call “male cleavage.” (His preferred fabric is Super 120’s wool twill in “medium gray,” a color that typically evokes the banal—pencil lead, gravel, wet cement.) The Thom Browne look has often been compared to Pee-wee Herman’s archly nerdy costume or to Don Draper’s office wear after a few rounds through the dryer, but it calls to my mind, too, some mischievous scamp out of a Roald Dahl book who is always conspiring to put a dead hamster in the headmistress’s bed
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